Finding My Cuenca Neighborhood — The Best Areas to Stay (and Live) in Cuenca, Ecuador
When I first landed in Cuenca, Ecuador, my plan was simple: stay in different neighborhoods for the first couple of months and see which one felt most like home — assuming my visa approval comes through, of course.
I didn’t check out every neighborhood. Some I scratched off the list based on the other people’s descriptions, their distance from the city, or let’s be honest, their name; I just can’t see myself living someplace called Gringolandia no matter how nice it is. 😊
Here’s what I learned:
1. Ricaurte: Affordable But a Bit Too Far Out
My adventure started just outside the city limits in Ricaurte with a month-long house sit. It’s great if you want slower-paced living and solitude; not so great if you thrive on walkable cafés or lively evenings. After a few weeks, I found myself craving life beyond the sound of stray dogs and crowing roosters. Thankfully, Ricaurte has reliable access to El Centro (1 hour by bus).
2. El Centro: Bustling by Day, Ghost Town by Night
Cuenca’s historic district, El Centro, is the vibrant heartbeat of the city. It’s where you can sip coffee beside a 400-year-old church while watching expats, locals, and backpackers all weave through the same narrow streets. Living here means everything’s within walking distance—restaurants, museums, artisan shops, language schools, endless parades/celebrations, and an occasional protest.
On the flip side, that bustling charm comes with noise and a high volume of traffic that gets totally gridlocked during those fun celebrations. I also expected it to be lively at all hours. Surprise! When the sun sets (and on Sundays), you might as well be in a closed museum. Bonus points, though, if you like your peace and quiet to come with cathedral views.
You’ll also pay more for an apartment with modern insulation against the chilly weather and noise. And what I’d be able to afford in this area would likely be small. Still, for creatives or anyone craving that urban energy, El Centro delivers.
3. Yanuncay: Suburban Comfort
Yanuncay is one of Cuenca’s larger parishes and is solidly residential — calm, family-oriented, and off the tourist path. It offers a mix of modern housing options (especially closer to the river, Río Yanuncay) and older traditional options. Just a short walk from my apartment, I saw houses with chickens (and roosters), cows, and the cutest sheep ever.
The public transportation options were great, both buses and the Tranvia (electric streetcar). It’s about 30 minutes by bus to El Centro. I’d likely get more apartment for my money here, and my Spanish would get a good daily workout for free. 😆
4. Sector Pumapungo: Great Location, Rough Stay
Oh, Pumapungo… we got off on the wrong foot. The apartment’s location was fabulous. I could walk to El Centro or to my favorite park in all of Cuenca, Parque Paraiso. But I was run off by a foul smell in my apartment (briefly masked by industrial-strength disinfectant).
Sadly, this isn’t unique to one building. Even in newer or renovated apartments, you’ll occasionally catch that faint (or not-so-faint) waft of sewage in bathrooms or kitchens, especially after dark.
The theory is that Cuenca’s high altitude and fluctuating water pressure sometimes allow odors to sneak back up through the drains, especially at night when usage drops. It’s one of those well-known (and maddening) “welcome to Andean living” quirks.
On the bright side, the area itself is historic and near the beautiful Museo Pumapungo and its resident llamas. But, with its proximity to popular tourist/heritage sites, expect housing to come with a premium price tag.
5. Sector Santa María del Vergel: Beautiful But Isolated
This residential sector had gorgeous, cloud-draped mountain views straight out of a painting. But accessibility? Not so much. Only one bus (the #25) runs that route, so unless you have a car or enjoy long walks uphill with groceries, it’s not exactly convenient. And taxi drivers often get lost finding it, so keep your route handy on your phone.
Still, lounging in my hammock chair overlooking the city felt like pure peace. Waking up to that view every morning could almost make it worth it. Almost.
6. Puertas del Sol: Lovely But Pricey
Puertas del Sol borders the famously named Gringolandia and runs along the Río Tomebamba. It’s known as an upscale, quiet, residential area — I got two out of the three. My apartment had a lovely river view …which I couldn’t hear over the near-constant traffic.
Although a sweet spot for green space, river walks, it has fewer cafes and small shops than a typical neighborhood. However, the restaurants that exist are delicious.
Also, it’s popular with expats so expect higher prices all around — apartments, restaurants, and stores alike.
7. Capulispamba: Distant and Affordable
Cupulispamba is a relaxed neighborhood far outside Cuenca. It has decent bus options (over an hour from El Centro), but if you take a taxi, expect complaints about the distance. Just tip well because the driver is unlikely to get a return fare back to the city.
All that, plus the hit-or-miss internet, was a dealbreaker for me. But if you’re okay being that far from the city’s buzz (and possibly feeling disconnected), the peace and low rents might be worth it.
The Ones That Got Away
I couldn’t afford an Airbnb in El Vergel (#8), but every time I walk through that neighborhood (usually on a visa-related mission), my heart sings a little. It has just the right balance of safety, city energy, and quiet comfort.
And the area near Parque Paraíso (#9)? This is hands down the best park in Cuenca. I can’t afford to live near it either, but I’ll happily visit whenever I need a reset.
✨Final Thoughts
Each neighborhood showed me a different side of Cuenca—from historic charm to hilltop serenity. Exploring the city this way taught me a lot. As I suspected, no single neighborhood checked every box. But I don’t need a perfect area; I want one that feels like home. I’ve narrowed it down to El Vergel (hey, miracles happen) and Yanuncay, hopefully close to the river. Once my visa is approved, I’ll be ready for the real apartment hunt.
Use my notes as a jumping-off point for your own Cuenca explorations. Your criteria might differ, and you might fall in love with a spot I didn’t mention. That’s part of the fun. If you can, stay in or visit neighborhoods at different times of day (and on both weekdays and weekends) to get a true feel for their rhythm.
A Little Side Note
Cuenca does not have zoning laws, which means you can find a house/apartment building, a small grocery, a car repair shop, and a restaurant all on the same block. It’s part of the city’s charm… and occasionally its chaos.
In one neighborhood, I got a meal and a massage in the same place, and my groceries a few doors down. It’s one of my favorite things about Cuenca.
And don’t assume proximity equals noise. I once stayed across from a dance club and heard very little noise thanks to solid insulation. You never know.
📝 If you’ve lived in or visited Cuenca, which neighborhood stole your heart (or your sanity)? Drop your experience in the comments.
I loved the tour. Hope you’re able to nestle in to a new home soon.
I have a bit of FOMO (fear or missing out). Before I nestle, I think I want to check out some warmer parts of Ecuador.
Great informations, thank you for sharing.
I was my pleasure.