Guadalajara for Expats: My Honest Review After 4 Weeks of Scouting
Guadalajara (or GDL, as the cool kids call it) is Mexico’s second-largest city and the birthplace of Mariachi music, Tequila, and Birria. After hearing whispers about its vibrant culture and affordability, I had to see it for myself.
So I added Guadalajara to my scouting spreadsheet, and spent a month exploring the neighborhoods, sampling Tequilas, and sweating through my clothes—spoiler alert: it’s hot. I was also asking myself the big question: Could I see myself live here?
In this post, I’m sharing my honest take on scouting Guadalajara—from first impressions to walkability, community vibes, safety, and whether it felt like home for a Black, queer, midlife woman navigating her next chapter abroad.
First Impressions
Guadalajara surprised me in a few ways, but let’s start with what I expected. I’d heard it was one of the most LGBTQ+-friendly cities in Latin America. I even saw it called “Gay-lajara” somewhere. I pictured a thriving queer scene—and it was…for men. And while I was delighted to meet and chat with a few gay guys and felt that extra let-down-my-guard feeling of family, I couldn’t help but miss the queer women. As usual, we were in hiding.
It wasn’t a dealbreaker. Just…disappointing.
Climate: Now I Understand “Dry Heat”
Daytime temperatures hovered in the mid-80s to low 90s, but it was DRY. I never understood what people meant when they said “but it’s a dry heat” until I came here. I tried everything—extra water, electrolytes, a sombrero the size of a satellite dish—but the heat still won. Within days, my skin was protesting with seborrheic flare-ups and was so deprived of moisture it felt it might crack (which I promise is no fun). Luckily, a Facebook group of Black expats saved the day with skincare tips (baby oil + Nivea Regeneración Intensiva = relief).
I became very selective about what I was willing to come out in the sun for: Tequila tasting tour? Yes. Intriguing traditional Mexican Cowboy Show? No.
I even tried getting out of the city, but my escape plan backfired. You’d assume that it’d be cooler closer to the lake. My visit to Lake Chapala and Ajijic proved that theory wrong.
Eventually, I just started keeping vampire hours—emerging from my cool adobe apartment only at dusk. That’s how serious it was. And it helped.
Safety & Sense of Belonging
I stayed few days in a hotel in Chapalita, a charming, tourist-friendly area, then moved to an apartment in Jardines del Bosque—quiet and residential. However, my street was right on the dividing line of nice vs sketchy. I still felt relatively safe overall, though I did witness a petty theft at a grocery store and several male staff went full Mission Impossible chasing the guy down.
I know, this can happen anywhere. But, I have to admit I avoided that grocery store in the closer but sketchier area and opted for a longer walk and taxi home from the grocery store over in Chapalita.
Getting Around (Transportation & Walkability)
Guadalajara has an easy-to-navigate international airport about 30 minutes from the city center (when there’s no traffic). You can grab a taxis at the pre-paid at kiosks just before the exit the building (big win), though some folks do prefer to gamble on rideshares which aren’t allowed to meet you in front of arrivals. Why deal with all that hassle?
Rideshares, once you’re in the city, are the way to go. Uber was cheap and reliable. I didn’t try public transit or bike shares this time. I was too busy hiding from the sun.
On foot, GDL is flat and walkable, but the heat made sure I didn’t clock as many steps as I could have.
Cost of Living
Having just spent almost 2 months in Ecuador, Guadalajara felt surprisingly expensive by comparison. Especially restaurants. I did some grocery runs and dined out at fast and fine venues, and while it’s still cheaper than the U.S., my pesos definitely did not stretch as far here. It was not a budget-friendly paradise for ME.
Ease of Living
Spanish is not optional in Guadalajara. Perhaps if you’re here for a short vacation and doing a lot of touristy things, you can get by only speaking English. But to accomplish everyday living activities here you’ll need decent Spanish.
That said, when a filling fell out, I found an incredible English-speaking dentist (Dra. Verónica Cabezas at ProClinic Dental). It was a marvelous experience. I was able to get a same-day appointment. You read that right—same day! She repaired the tooth quickly and skillfully, without trying to upsell me on procedures I didn’t need. She did give me some tough love though (floss more—even if it hurts.) And the price? Ridiculously reasonable.
You should note though that she spoke English, which was a huge relief, but her staff did not. This has been my experience with other medical facilities in other cities as well. So there’s no getting around it, you need Spanish here.
Huge bonus: Guadalajara is a huge modern city that stays in touch with its traditional roots. Meaning? I had access to anything I might purchase in the U.S., plus easy access to markets with affordable fruit, dried flor de Jamaica, and more.
Community & Connection
I had fun connecting with a Black expat group through a language exchange event. (Of course, they had movie night right after I left.) Sadly, most groups there didn’t seem super active. A local leader told me it’s a challenge because GDL is kinda transient—people come, stay a while, then move on.
Gut Check: Was It Love?
It’s a No for me. I knew that by week three, when I started counting the days until I could leave. I couldn’t take the heat, so I had to get out of the Guadalajan kitchen.
✨Final Thoughts
Guadalajara has a lot to offer—history, strong infrastructure, and a mix of traditional and modern life. But for me, it just didn’t click.
Still, I’m glad I came.
📝 Have you been to Guadalajara? Did you fall in love—or run for shade like me? Drop a comment—I’d love to hear your take.
