Scouting Cuenca
I didn’t have high hopes for Cuenca. It was only on the list because Tammi was interested, and well, I’m scouting for two.😊
In fact, each of the three times I’ve gone to Ecuador had less to do with a burning desire to be there and more to do with cosmic nudges — plant medicine at the only place in the world led by queer women of color; a yoga teacher training that was switched from Germany at the last minute; and now, a scouting trip because Tammi was curious about it.; to attend and tantra and yoga teacher certification program training (I signed up for the session in Germany); and now again, to scout it because Tammi’s curious about it.
Still, I wanted to give it a fair shake, so I booked 6 weeks there. And by the end… let’s just say it almost took a crowbar to get me to leave…almost.
My Experience of Cuenca
This wasn’t a vacation. It was a scouting trip. There was a quiet question humming under every stroll, every meal, every market visit: Could I live here?
First Impressions
Let’s start with the obvious. Cuenca, often called the “Athens of Ecuador,” is charming. Not in the over-polished, Instagram-influencer way. It felt safe. Unrushed. And not overly touristy (maybe because I visited during the rainy season?).
The air is thin (hello, 8,400 feet/2,560 meters), but once you recover from the altitude, it’s clean and crisp. 😄 But you will feel the altitude when hauling groceries uphill.
The weather reminded me of Ireland where layers are essential. You’d be too toasty under the direct sun one moment, perfectly warm when the sun dipped behind the clouds, then chilly to downright cold when it rained — and that’s all in the same day…day after day after day. (People said it seemed extra rainy this year, so maybe your experience will vary.)
The Expats
Fortunately, chilly only describes the weather. I’ve never had a warmer reception from an expat community!
I dropped a quick “Hello” message in the Facebook group like I usually do, and was delightfully overwhelmed with responses, helpful advice, and invitations. The first two weeks alone ended up packed with coffee meetups, live music events, and Mardi Gras happenings. And it didn’t stop there. All those tiny welcomes added up to something that felt like belonging.
The Practical Stuff
This is where the rubber meets the real-life road. Vacationing somewhere is one thing. Living somewhere? Living somewhere is another beast entirely. Here’s what stood out:
Walkability: I walked a lot. Cuenca is relatively flat, but this is still the Andes—you will encounter steep areas (likely at the end of the day when you’re already tired 😉). I loved being able to walk to cafes, markets, parks, and museums.
Altitude: Not for the faint of lung. Not for the faint of lung. I adjusted within a week and a half—maybe because I’ve been at higher altitudes before—but if you have respiratory or blood pressure issues, you might want to consult with your doctor before going. It’s quite humbling to be passed on a hill by a woman with a toddler tied to her back and groceries in hand.
Transportation: Buses are cheap, but I wasn’t up to buying a bus pass and figuring out routes. I stuck to taxis, which were everywhere and affordable. The Azutaxi app is like Uber but trickier if you don’t speak Spanish fluently. You can enter a pickup point, but you’ll have to tell your destination to the driver. You may also have to explain how to get there if the cross streets / reference point you provide aren’t well known. I recommend brushing up on key phrases—and also having the directions handy in your map app to show them. Also, you pay in cash (but I think they are adding a way to pay in the app).
Groceries: Mercados are where Cuenca shines. They’re beautiful and bountiful—perfect for fresh fruit experiments. I discovered fresh flor de jamaica (aka hibiscus or sorrel) and turned it into tea… four hours and 150 photos later (read that story here).
Grocery stores are also affordable and plentiful, but there’s something about wandering through rows of fruit and herbs in a mercado that just feels good.
Dining Out: From $5 lunches to $17 splurges, the food scene has range. For a roundup of places I did love, check out Where to Eat in Cuenca.
Final Thoughts
I loved a lot about Cuenca:
- The prices and the people
- The mercados and street vendors (who doesn’t enjoy buying groceries while just walking down the street?)
- Walking through plumes of palo santo smoke —a form of incense with spiritual cleansing properties— and saying a quick blessing
- Arranging a girls’ day with massages at a new friend’s house
- Feeling like someone who, maybe, could belong
But… could I live here?
For me, Cuenca is a Probably Not. It started in the Maybe column, but after I left, Ecuador elected a Trump-friendly president. That further tipped the scales against moving there.
For Tammi? It’s a “Hell No.” She’s not leaving Hawaii for a chilly city with thin air.
That said, I’m so glad I went. If Cuenca is on your list, I recommend visiting. You might fall in love—or at the very least, leave with a few amazing memories.
Have you ever visited a place you thought you’d hate but ended up liking (or vice versa)? I’d love to hear your story—drop it in the comments!
